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Peak Practice

The Peak District is just minutes from Sheffield and Manchester and yet is as bleak, beautiful and mysterious as walking on the Moon. Chris James sets out on the Dane Valley Way.

Day One: Gradbach to Buxton on the Dane Valley Way

Stop in Leek for provisions (no leeks), settling on a local choice of Bakewell tarts, Mars bars and some very salty crisps. Winston makes a last-minute investment in a roll mat for £3.49.

We follow the A53 up towards Buxton, passing the spectacular Ramshaw Rocks, which rise out of the earth like the scales of a Stegasaurus. Turn off into Flash, the highest village in Britain, but narrowly miss the wonderfully named Flash Bottom. Arrive at the start of the walk, Gradbach, a beautifully leafy river valley. We follow the copper red stream before heading up past Manor Farm. Ambling across fields mined with sheep dung we hit our first disaster- Winston drops the camera while reaching for batteries, but manages to hang on to the cherry Bakewells!

We get our first sense of the place - ragged rocks jutting out of rough grassland, dilapidated slate buildings, now home only to sheep. With Turn Edge (434) on our right and Cut Edge (462) on our left, we travel in parallel to the River Dane, peering down at the beautiful Panniers Pool, a natural rock pool of clear water. The path loops around, close to a mysterious slate tower without doorways or windows. Winston suggests playing giant Jenga with its precarious dry-stone construction. We move on.

We move on to Axe Edge Moor - passing warning signs to stay on the footpath. Because of the exceptionally dry spring, there is already a high fire risk and nobody's taking any chances. After a long stretch of barren moorland with wild grasses and craters filled with tractor tyres we arrive on the outskirts of Buxton and camp with the permission of a friendly farmer near Grinlow.

Day Two: Buxton to Bottom-of-the-Oven on the Midshires Way

Up early and strike camp. A steep climb up into Buxton Country Park is rewarded by great views of the Victorian domes of the Spa House below us. We drop down onto the rugby and cricket grounds covered in a carpet of dandelions and daisies.

Out of town on the A5004, otherwise known locally as Long Hill - and not without good reason. We peel off onto the Midshires Way, an old Roman Road which guides you back onto moor land, and brilliantly, 'Round the Bend' just before the outdoors centre. As the path winds down, Fernilee Reservoir creeps into view as well as the distant towers of Bollington. We are overtaken at high speed by a mountain biker in a fluorescent yellow jacket. I am amazed at the hundreds of miles of dry-stone walls, much of it in excellent condition that line every part of the Peaks.

We cross the dam between Errwood and Fernilee Reservoir. It transpires Errwood has a rather ghostly history - having submerged a number of buildings including a gunpowder factory, that apparently had its own orchestra. There's a suitably grimy picture of them on an information board with their blackened faces, old trombones and tubas, and rather strange pointed hats.

We continue on up 'The Street', a bit of a trudge in all fairness, leading to the base of Cats Tor (500), and Pym's Chair. Pym was reputed to be a highwayman who lay in wait here for hapless travellers. Needless to say, there's no trace of his chair.

Because of the high winds, we decide not to tackle Shining Tor (559) and instead take a parallel path to Howlersknowl. A bit of route correction takes us onto to Lamaload Reservoir and Hooleyhey Lane; a final hike along the road brings the welcome site of the campsite on the hill (Torgate Farm - £2.50 each, unlimited fresh spring water and free toothpaste in the washroom!) and the even more welcome sight of the Stanley Arms.

Day Three: Bottom-of-the-Oven to Gradbach

Wake feeling like the Tin Man from The Wizard of Oz, but soon loosen up on the path down to Clough Brook. The landscape becomes more lush with tall pines and bluebells. Avoid the climb up Shutlingoe (506), which is proving popular with walkers. Quick coffee in the Crag Inn, Wildboarclough, which boasts a small mountain of muddy walking boots in the front porch. Over the stile at Leech Wood and we're on the home straight, the Ramshaw Rocks rearing up again in the distance. A final climb and descent brings us down to the Gradbach Youth Hostel and a valedictory hop back to the car.